"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
03/10/2019 at 21:38 • Filed to: Volvo
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"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
03/10/2019 at 21:38 • Filed to: Volvo | 4
| 6 |
I replaced the fuel pump, the old one was full of rusty particles. The new one just barely didn’t fit through the spaces between the pump and the block, so I had to widen the spacer with a file.
Now it’s definitely getting fuel, but still wouldn’t start. I pulled a plug and cranked it, no spark.
I checked the points gap, which was way too wide for some reason. I also discovered that there’s a hilarious amount of play in the distributor. So with points set correctly (I think) it still gets no spark. I’m starting to think that the guy I sold it to/bought it back from must’ve been screwing with the timing and the points and put them way out? But that doesn’t quite make sense, there would still be spark, just at the wrong time. So something is wrong between the points and the spark plugs. And I’m 99% sure it’s not the cap, rotor, or plug wires. So I don’t know what that leaves to be wrong. I know there’s electricity at the coil, and at the points. Whatever’s wrong, there’s so much shaft play that I think I need a new distributor anyways.
It’s a pretty tired looking unit. So there’s the Volvo update, check back in next weekend if I get a new distributor by then and see if it’s running yet.....
Nibby
> gmctavish needs more space
03/10/2019 at 21:39 |
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NUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
MM54
> gmctavish needs more space
03/10/2019 at 22:04 |
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Do you have a dwell meter?
Also, if you have power to the points, a good ground from them, and they are opening/closing without spark, the coil/cap/rotor
is the next suspect.
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gmctavish needs more space
> MM54
03/10/2019 at 22:40 |
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I do not. Wait I can have power to the points and still have a coil issue? I have power at the coil, I guess I’ll try sandpaper on the contacts on the cap and rotor, but they really don’t look bad. They were all new in 2011 or 2012, same with the points. I’ll try and figure out where the ground for the distributor is, and see if it looks good.
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MM54
> gmctavish needs more space
03/10/2019 at 23:19 |
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power goes from the battery to the ignition switch to the coil + through the coil to coil - (just because there’s power there doesn’t mean the coil is good, more on that in a moment) to the points to ground, the points opening and closing ground the coil - post, and breaking that ground is what causes the magnetic field in the coil to collapse and create a very large voltage out the secondary (output) winding.
It is possible (though not all that common) that the coil could have bad windings on the primary side, making it either much higher impedance (open-ish windings, not enough current) or too low (shorted windings, not enough flux). These would produce a weak spark. It’s also possible for a coil to be shorted on the secondary side, and the spark just exists inside the coil where you can’t see it.
To check if the spark is being lost at the distributor, I’d plug a spark plug directly into the wire from the coil (rig it to fit) and clamp it to the block or otherwise something grounded. If it doesn’t spark, the issue is in the wiring/points/coil, if there is spark there but not at the plugs, it’s getting lost in the cap/rotor/plug wires.
Hope this helps!
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gmctavish needs more space
> MM54
03/10/2019 at 23:35 |
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....I definitely was not grounding the plug I had out to check for spark. Oops. Alright so who knows, maybe I do have spark after all.
CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever
> gmctavish needs more space
03/13/2019 at 21:49 |
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Just in case you’ re interested in some running volvos